Hobs take a lot of daily use, so faults are common. Most fall into a handful of patterns, and some of them you can sort out in a couple of minutes with a cloth. Others involve gas or mains electricity, and those are strictly for a qualified engineer. This guide covers gas, ceramic (electric) and induction hobs: what usually causes each problem, what is safe to check yourself, and when to stop and call.
Don't use switches, lighters or flames. Open doors and windows, turn the gas off at the meter (unless it is in a cellar) and call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999, free, 24 hours, from outside the property.
Gas hob problems
The burner won't light, or only clicks
This is the most common gas hob complaint. The ignition sparks, you can hear the clicking, but the flame doesn't catch, or it lights and then keeps clicking.
Likely causes:
- A burner cap that is damp, dirty or not sitting flat on the burner base
- Food or grease blocking the small gas ports around the burner
- Dirt or moisture on the ignition electrode, the small ceramic spark plug next to each burner
- A spill that has run under the hob and into the ignition
Safe to check: Switch every burner off and let the hob cool. Lift off the burner cap and ring, dry them thoroughly (a damp cap is the most common reason for constant clicking) and wipe any debris from the ports with a soft brush. Refit the parts so the cap sits flat and central. If you have just cleaned the hob, leave it a while to dry before trying again.
Call us if: one burner still won't light after that, or the clicking carries on after the flame has caught. That points to a faulty electrode, ignition switch or a gas tap problem, and those need an engineer.
The flame is yellow, orange or uneven
A gas flame should be steady and blue. Flames that look limp and yellow, black marks on pans or around the hob, and more condensation than usual are listed by the Gas Safe Register as signs that an appliance may be unsafe. A brief orange flicker when food spills is normal, but a flame that stays yellow is not. Stop using that burner and arrange a check by a Gas Safe registered engineer. Don't try to adjust the gas yourself.
The flame goes out when you let go of the knob
Most gas hobs have a flame failure device that cuts the gas if the flame goes out. If the flame dies as soon as you release the knob, the device may be faulty or the burner may be dirty or badly seated. Make sure the cap is sitting correctly and try again, holding the knob in a little longer. If it still goes out, it needs an engineer.
Stiff, loose or sticking control knobs
Knobs that are hard to turn, or that spin without doing anything, usually mean the gas tap behind them is wearing out. Taps contain the gas supply, so this is a Gas Safe repair, not a DIY job.
Electric (ceramic) hob problems
One ring isn't heating
If one ring has stopped working while the others are fine, the usual causes are a failed heating element, a faulty ring control (energy regulator) or a loose connection. There is little to check at home: make sure the hob has not tripped the circuit at your fuse box or consumer unit, and check the ring is not simply switched to a very low setting. If it is still dead, it needs an engineer, because the fault is inside the hob.
The whole hob is dead
Check whether the hob's isolator switch (often a switch on the wall near the cooker) is on, and whether the circuit has tripped at the fuse box. If it trips again as soon as you switch it back on, leave it off and call an engineer.
A ring won't switch off, or the hot light stays on
A ring that stays on after you turn the control to off is a fault with the control. Switch the hob off at the isolator and don't use it until it has been repaired. A "hot" light that stays on after cooling can be a sensor fault.
Cracked glass
If the glass is cracked or chipped, stop using the hob and switch it off at the isolator. Liquid can reach the electrics through a crack. The glass can't be repaired safely, and a replacement needs fitting properly.
Induction hob problems
"No pan" or the ring won't start
Induction hobs only heat pans with a magnetic base. Check with a fridge magnet: if it doesn't stick to the base, the pan won't work. The pan also needs to be big enough for the ring and sit flat in the middle. If a suitable pan still isn't detected, the hob needs checking.
Buzzing, whining or a fan that keeps running
Some noise is normal. A hum from the pan, especially at high power, is common, and the cooling fan often runs for a while after you finish cooking. A new loud buzz, or a noise that was not there before, is worth getting checked.
Cuts out while cooking
Induction hobs shut down to protect themselves if they overheat. Poor ventilation underneath, an overheated pan or a faulty sensor are all possible causes. If it keeps happening with a suitable pan and a cool kitchen, it needs an engineer.
Touch controls not responding
Wipe the control area dry and clean, and check whether the child lock or control lock is on (your manual shows how to release it). Spills and grease on the controls are a frequent cause. If the controls are still dead, the control panel may need replacing.
Looking after your hob
- Wipe spills as soon as the hob has cooled, so they don't bake on or run underneath.
- On gas hobs, lift the caps and rings regularly, clean the ports and dry everything before refitting.
- Use flat-based pans of a sensible size for the ring. Don't slide rough pan bases across glass.
- Don't use abrasive pads or harsh cleaners on glass or ceramic.
When to call an engineer
Call us if the hob has a gas smell, a stubborn yellow flame, a ring that won't light or heat after the basic checks, cracked glass, or controls that stick or don't switch off. We repair gas, electric and induction hobs of all makes across Swansea, Mumbles and the Gower. Repairs start from £70 + VAT, we can usually book a visit for the same or next day, and every repair is guaranteed for 90 days. You can read more on our hob repair page, or see what to do if your gas hob won't light.
Call us on 029 2088 5355 for a quote, or book online. Same-day or next-day where possible, repairs from £70 + VAT, and a 90-day guarantee on every repair.
Book a repair onlineFrequently asked questions
Why does my gas hob keep clicking?
Continuous clicking usually means the spark is firing but the gas is not catching, or that the ignition is picking up moisture or food debris. A damp, dirty or badly seated burner cap is the most common reason, and it is safe to dry and refit the cap yourself. If it keeps clicking after that, an engineer needs to check the ignition.
Is it safe to use a gas hob with a yellow flame?
A healthy gas flame is steady and blue. Flames that look limp and yellow are one of the warning signs the Gas Safe Register lists for an unsafe appliance, so stop using the hob and have a Gas Safe registered engineer check it.
Why has one ring on my ceramic hob stopped heating?
The usual causes are a failed heating element, a faulty ring control, or a loose connection. Check that the hob's circuit has not tripped at the fuse box. If it has not, the ring needs an engineer, because the fault is inside the hob.
Why does my induction hob say there is no pan?
Induction hobs only heat pans with a magnetic base and a base large enough for the ring. Try a pan that a magnet sticks to, centre it on the ring and check the pan is not warped. If the error stays with a suitable pan, the hob needs checking.
